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Tuesday 19 June 2007

Emotions on the red Square

Fourth and last day in the Russian capital city. Tonight, that's the great departure by transsiberian train towards Siberia and the Baikal lake, a 4-day trip up to Irkutsk. WAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHH !!!! I can't wait for tonight !!
Here are my adventures in Moscow:

Saturday the 16th of june
Punctual arrival of the nighttrain coming from Saint-Petersburg at the Leningrasky station, northeast of Moscow. The metro entrance is located a few meters away. The Moscow metro has a distinctive feature, he has a loop line, a kind of underground ring road. But unlike the Parisian metro, here, walls are covered in marble ; a sort of giant bathroom for luxuous hotel (without water).

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I get off at the Kievskaya stop before going to the family's house where I'll sleep tonight in. I struggle before finding the correct entrance, helped by a nice Russian woman. The addresses are actually different here. A figure indicates the block number, another one the entrance number and the last one the appartment number. I'm welcomed by Marianne, a very nice, smiling russian woman and more over she speaks French. She gives me some tips to go to the Kremlin, heart of Moscow and nerve center of Russia.
By boat, by tramway, by bus or by metro, I finally decide to discover the city on foot. I go through the Arbat pedestrian street, a lively street which is packed with talented portraitists, souvenirs shopkeepers, eclectic troubadours and sandwich men who are real travelling advertisings that invite you to go to a restaurant. Nothing better to start the day than wandering about a so lively street!
A few hundreds meters from the end of the street, I see the Kremlin red wall. This fortress, symbol of the Russian empire, always withstood the invaders, there was only Napoleon that succeeded in chipping it before giving up in 1812, then the bolcheviks who launched an attack on it in november 1917. A file of tourists having the precious key to visit it stretches out in front of the turnstiles. Each person has to show that one has the right credentials before getting in, every big bag are automatically rejected and walking under a metal detector is compulsory.

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I keep the visit of the Kremlin for tomorrow and prefer heading towards the red square at one of the angle of the fortress. The feeling is very strong when I step on the paving square. Demonstrations, riots, celebrations or public punishments, this square symbolised the extremes. I'm one among the others and aware that millions of people preceded us and not always with the same state of mind. Digital cameras took the place of weapons. At the end of the square, there is the splendid, multicoloured blessed-Basil cathedral. Another lightning flash in this magical moment I'm living.

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I walk on alongside the Kremlin belt, then I cross the Moskova and head for the Christ-the-Saviour cathedral, another moscovit jewel. I sit down on a bench to relax after this wonderful day.

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Sunday the 17 of june
The visit of the Kremlin marks the rhythm of my day. The entrance is located under the Koutafia tower, metal detectors scan every visitor and the Russian agents don't have a smile on their faces. I pass these security constraints and go ahead on the paving way that drives me inside the fortress. I pass under a porch and go in the Kremlin. Official buildings are on the both sides and are watched by the Russian police. Everybody tacitly keeps on following the paving way. I have the impression to get in a temple, a forbidden place or reserved for an elite. This impression must be shared by the other visitors who whisper to talk to each other. The road turns on the left and surrounds a paving area which comes out into the Sobornaya square. The square is encircled by different monuments, the Ivan the Great's tower whose gilded dome is visible from kilometers around, the patriarches palace, the Asumption cathedral which holds most of the patriarches' tombs who lead the orthodox church from the XIV to the XVII century, the Archange cathedral where Ivan the Terrible is buried and the Anunciation cathedral. A summary of Russian architecture, culture and history, the tourist guides are inexhaustible.

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Behind the Ivan the Great's tower, there is the Queen-bell, the biggest bell in the world that never rang. And not far from this place, the impressive-measured King-cannon that was never used either.

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The road forms an arch around these monuments and goes down to another entrance of the Kremlin ; this time the entrance is forbidden for the tourists. Just before the exit, on the right, the armours palace that contains a lot of treasures collected by the State and the Church over the years. Diamonds fund juxtaposes this palace and shows jewels and gems worn by tsars and tsarinas.
And in the middle of all this wonders, I haven't seen Poutine, the G8 is finished though! Although I've seen his double in front of the entrance of the red square, I've also seen Lenin who played crosswords helped by Brejnev...

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Monday the 18 of june
Relaxind day in Moscow where I wore my soles out in some less-known districts.

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And I was surprised by the number of 4-wheels vehicles and big german cars that drive in the city, I thought the 4-wheels were made for the rough paths. At the time where the planet preservation is a major topic, being witness of this kind of exhibition is indecent. Some mentalities must change. When will we see business men driving Renault Twingo or Nissan Micra? To paraphrase a song : "I prefer to be poor with my mind than rich with their..."
I send you this picture to illustrate what I'm talking about.

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Tuesday 12 June 2007

In the streets of Saint-Petersburg

Wake-up at 4h45, a quarter of an hour to dress up, to pack up my belongings and my brother drops me off at the Roissy - Charles de Gaulle airport. I check in my backpack and the hostess gives me the boarding card. The first flight is short and 45 minutes after taking off from Paris, we arrive in London Heathrow. The safety precautions are draconian with a body search for every traveler. A bus takes me from the terminal 4 to the terminal 1 where I'm going to take a connection to Saint-Petersburg. The first travelers get on the plane and I feel the change of surroundings because most travelers are russian or english.
We land at 17h00 (local time) 2h later than in France. The airport is very tiny in comparison with Paris or London airports. As soon as we get off the plane, the authorities ask us to fill in an immigration form and to go to see the customs officer with this document and the passport. The officer auscultates the visa (got it in France, impossible to come here without visa on pain of being driven back) and gives the stamped passport back to me, I reward him with a large smile and I head for the next hall to collect my backpack. Before leaving the airport, I withdraw some roubles to take the marchroutka will drop me off downtown, 14km away. The marchroutki, a kind of minibuses, are the most economic ways to go downtown. I talk with the driver usind the sign language because in russian, I can hardly say "good morning", "good gye" and "thank you". I show him on a map where I want to go and he nods his head, I take a banknote out of my pocket and I show him 1000 roubles. The driver gives me back the change the price of the journey is only 15 roubles.
In the bus I meet an Italian guy ; he's very happy to be on board because he saved a lot of money. Actually, before getting on, he wanted to take the taxi but the price was 100 times more expensive for the same journey ! 50€ instead of 0,5€ ! I get off downtown and I start walking to look for my family host. The address is scribbled in French on a piece of sheet while all signs are in cyrillic here, just a game for the brain to convert the alphabet. Some letters are the same but the pronunciation is different, for instance, the cyrillic H is pronounced N, the C is pronounced S, the P is pronounced R, there are also new letters, one of them is pronounced "shch"...
I drop my backpack at the bedroom and go to discover the city. I walk alongside the canals. My eyes switch from a façade to another one. Sometimes ochre, sometimes white, the façades are massive, imposing in the image of the Russian Empire. Wandering about the Saint-Petersburg streets, I think of the History-wealthed cities, on a crossroads, we turn the head and a monument faces us. I let myself go with this architectural show without trying to know what the name of this cathedral or this building. It's only when I go back to my room I rebuild my run : the Nevski perspective, the Kazan cathedral, the Saviour-on-the-spilled-blood church, the Mikhaïlovsky gardens, the Russian museum and the magnificient Hermitage.

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Around 10 p.m. I go back to the Saviour-on-the-spilled-blood church that is still open. To describe the interior, here is the recipe : take the best Russian artists (Frolov brothers' workshop), give them tons of multicoloured pebbles, lock them up for 12 years and you get 7000m² of mosaics illustrating episodes of the New Testament. Not a square meter was forgotten, really marvellous, even for the nonbelievers.

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